anti-aging skin care – Adamant About Beauty

Blueberries: Queens of the Berry World

October 9, 2019July 23, 2020Alchimie ForeverLeave a Comment

Blueberries have the best of reputations: they are filled with antioxidants, colorful, round, and delicious. The Vaccinium myrtillus L. fruit, known in English as bilberry or European blueberries (very similar to the American blueberry), has powerful protective properties which have been known and utilized since the Middle Ages. Today, blueberries are even claimed to be “the most powerful antioxidants of all.”[1]

The European blueberries are Alchimie Forever’s signature ingredient – and not just because they are purple… Here are their three main benefits at the level of the skin.

1. Anti-redness benefits.

Blueberries play a role in the management of flushing symptoms: they tighten and protect fine capillaries thanks to anthocyanins,[2] and are thus ideal in skin care products targeting redness-prone skin. The vaso-protective effect of the European blueberry was first described in the 1960s, when the fruit’s capillary resistance and permeability were first analyzed. Since, studies have confirmed that blueberries increase capillary resistance and thus decrease redness.[3]

2. Antioxidant benefits.

Antioxidants aim to prevent, stop, or repair the damages that are caused in our skin by free radicals. Specifically, the flavonoids found in European blueberries (more specifically the anthocyanosidic extract) are powerful neutralizers of free radicals,[4] with the following benefits: they inhibit lipid peroxidation[5] (leathery coloration of aged skin) and prevent the degradation of collagen (fine lines, wrinkles, loss dehydration).[6]

3. Iron chelating activity.

Iron has often been featured in the health and consumer press in the context of anemia (i.e. iron deprivation). While many have discussed the various ways of ensuring appropriate iron intake, whether through diet (red meat and various fruits and vegetables), or through the daily use of supplements, few realize that excess iron is an accelerator of aging (skin and otherwise). Read more here or watch this YouTube video if I have piqued your curiosity.

Indeed, excess iron is involved in various chemical reactions that lead to the production of the hydroxyl radical, one of the most harmful free radicals.[7] Once again, the European blueberry comes to the rescue and plays a key protective role. Both quercetin and myricetin (two types of flavonoids found in this fruit) have iron chelating properties, meaning that they minimize the formation of free radicals stimulated by excess free iron and UV light and prevent accelerated aging.⁸

So eat your blueberries, but put them on your face too! Here are the Alchimie Forever products that feature this magical ingredient.

[1] Wu X, Beecher GR, Holden JM, Haytowitz DB, Gebhart SE, Prior RL. Lipophilic and hydrophilic antioxidant capacities of common foods in the United States. J Agric Food Chem. 2004;52(12):4026-4037.

[2] Bagchi D, Sen CK, Bagchi M, Atalay M. Anti-angiogenic, antioxidant, and anti-carcinogenic properties of a novel anthocyanin-rich berry extract formula. Biochemistry (Mosc). 2004;69(1):75-80.

[3] Morazzoni P, Bombardelli E. Vaccinium myrtillus L. Fitotherapia. 1996;67(1):3-29.

[4] Lichtenthaler R, Marx F. total oxidant scavenging capacities of common European fruit and vegetable juices. J Agric Food Chem. 2005;53(1):103-110.

[5] Sakagami H, Asano K, Takahashi K, Terakubo S, Shoji Y, Nakashima H, Nakamura W. Anti-stress activity of mulberry juice in mice. In Vivo. 2006;20(4):499-504.

[6] Morazzoni P, Bombardelli E. Vaccinium myrtillus L. Fitotherapia. 1996;67(1):3-29.

[7] Polla AS, Polla LL, Polla BS. Iron as the malignant spirit in successful ageing. Ageing Res Rev. 2003;2(1):25-37.

⁸Svobodová A, Psotová J, Walterová D. Natural phenolics in the prevention of UV-induced skin damage. Biomed Papers. 2003;147:137-145.

Stop Adding Sugar to Your Diet to Look Younger Longer

February 13, 2019Beauty2 Comments

Tomorrow is Valentine’s Day so a post on sweets (aka sugar) seems timely (it was that or a red roses rant).

Summary: Sugar is a (skin) aging accelerator. Stop adding sugar to your diet to look younger longer.

Sugar is hidden in almost everything we eat – including fruits and vegetables, yogurt (except plain), processed meats, salad dressings, sauces (yes, the best tomato sauce has added sugar), bread, pasta, crackers, wine, and more. Knowing this, we are all getting our “recommended sugar dosage” by eating and drinking “normal” substances – so no need to add juice, soda, sports or energy drinks, cereal, desert, cookies, muffins, smoothies, or other sugar-forward foods in our diet.

I am not speaking about the correlation between sugar and tooth decay, excess weight, diabetes, heart disease (and those connections are real). I am speaking pure skin here – excess sugar makes you look older sooner. Here is a summary of the pesky process called Glycation.

Excess sugar molecules attach themselves to proteins including collagen
Said collagen loses its strength and flexibility
Skin thus looks slacker, more wrinkled, less plump

Ironically, the culprits in this process are called AGEs – advanced glycation end products (compounds that result from a combination of sugars and proteins). And yes, they age you. For a more in-depth understanding of the impact of glycation on aging, read this article.

Here are easy tips to incorporate in your daily lifestyle today:

Stop drinking sugar – fruit juice, sodas, energy drinks, sports drinks
Forego pre-made or store-bought salad dressing, at home and at the restaurant; instead, have oil and vinegar on the side
If you must have desert, do it the European way and eat fruit and nuts (and cheese!)
Put down that piece of chocolate – unless it is dark chocolate (packed with antioxidants), small, and the only one you will enjoy this month.

Conclusion: Sugar is a (skin) aging accelerator. Stop adding sugar to your diet to look younger longer.

Mid-Year Reflections…

August 21, 2018August 21, 2018My lifeLeave a Comment

I am a planner, a list maker, a goal tracker. I start new years with a list of goals, some new, some left over from the previous year. And usually, sometime in the middle of the year – typically during my vacation in Greece, or around Labor Day weekend – I re look at my goals and set myself up for success for the fall.

This year, my mid-year reflection happened this past Saturday, August 18. I was in Magnano in Riviera (Italy), where my father is from, a place I have not visited in over 20 years. I was there with my husband, my three sisters and their partners and children, and with my father – per his request, to celebrate his 70^th year of life, and have our annual Polla Family Council meeting. Such a family gathering, and such a birthday, were conducive to reflection.

So, I reflected.

The first few months of 2018 were challenging, for reasons I still had a hard time processing. I acknowledged this to myself and thanked myself for getting past it. I thought about a note I made for myself at the end 2017 about strengthening my tolerance for tension. I certainly can check that off my list.

I thought about what I am most proud of professionally, namely continuing to grow Alchimie (look for some new distribution this fall), launching our newest product (Advanced retinol serum), continuing to lead Neill Fulfillment.

I reflected on my relationships and the people closest to me. Am I contributing to their happiness, to their growth, to their personal and professional development? These goals are important for the rest of 2018 (and beyond).

I reaffirmed my commitment to my self-care and reminded myself how part of the reason I started feeling better late Spring was more running, more water, more sleep, more reading. I re-commit to ending the year healthy and strong, physically and emotionally.

I thought about some very specific goals I have yet to achieve: redoing our YouTube videos; working on my book idea; reaching 10,000 Instagram followers for Alchimie; reading the books remaining on my “Marie Kondo-ed book pile.”

Finally, I think about what I am looking forward to for the rest of the year. These next few days in Italy, maybe becoming a home owner, lots of productive work travel, my god-daughter Jade’s week-long visit, the holiday season.

So much to be grateful for, so much to do, so much to look forward to…

Alchimie Forever Advanced Retinol Serum + Time Release Technology

June 22, 2018March 19, 2019Beauty4 Comments

You have probably heard that the Alchimie Forever family is expanding. Our newest product, the Advanced Retinol Serum with time release technology, is launching next month.

Last week, I wrote about why retinol is the gold standard ingredient for anti-aging. This week, I want to tell you a little bit more about our retinol – because not all retinol products are created equal!

Let me preface the below by saying that I have been testing prototypes of this formula on myself for about 16 months. We started with 1.5% retinol (in the blended form of pure retinol and retinol with time release technology). My face almost fell off… This final formulation is the perfect balance between efficacy and controlled side effects.

If you have never used a retinol, you will see some flaking. That is normal, that is how retinol works. Push through the first 2-3 weeks, and your skin will adapt, just as mine did.

What kind of retinol are we using?

Pure retinol and micro-sponge retinol (a unique and proprietary technology). Part of the retinol is loaded inside a sponge-like mechanism, something akin to a “reservoir”; over 24-28 hours after application, the natural sebum in our skin dissolves the “sponge,” thus releasing the locked retinol little by little. This timed and controlled release of the active enables its use at efficacious levels, with minimal irritation and fewer side effects that are typically associated with retinol.

Dryer skin types with less sebum will have a slower retinol release versus oilier skin types – which is desired as retinol irritation is typically greater the dryer the skin.

How much retinol are we using?

0.75% total concentration. You would be surprised by how few brands state the % of retinol contained in their product. We love transparency, and you will see this figure on our packaging and in our marketing materials.

What other ingredients are we using?

To enhance the anti-aging benefits of the product and minimize irritation and side effects, we are using a cocktail of antioxidants with nourishing, calming, soothing, and anti-inflammatory properties.

Ingredient	Skin Effect
Hyaluronic acid (Sodium hyaluronate)	Hydration, skin plumping
Jojoba Oil	Hydration
Vitamin E	Hydration, antioxidant
Vitamin C (Ascorbyl glucoside)	Antioxidant, brightening effect, non-photo-sensitizing form of Vitamin C
European Blueberry	Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-redness
Green Tea	Soothing, calming, anti-inflammatory
Red Clover (Isoflavones)	Antioxidant, calming & soothing, stimulates the skin’s natural collagen production
Edelweiss	Antioxidant, natural sun protection filaments
Apple stem cell extract	Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory

Who is this product for?

Women in the mid 30s+ who wish to control and manage the signs of skin aging. This is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive, and all skin tones. Please keep in mind that the more sensitive you are, the less frequently you will want to use this product (start once a week – and maybe stay at one a week).

Who is this product not for?

Nursing and pregnant women. Anyone who is absolutely averse to any side effects (such as flaking) whatsoever, no matter how well a product works.

How do we recommend you use it?

Apply a pea-sized amount in the evening to clean, dry skin, on face and neck, avoiding the eye area, two to three times per week. Follow with a moisturizer if desired. For those with sensitive skin, start off using once per week to allow skin to acclimate, and gradually work up to recommended frequency of use. Protect your results by wearing sunscreen daily. Flaking and redness may be possible. Avoid facial waxing for 72 hours pre and post application

Which other Alchimie Forever products are best used in conjunction?

Because retinol is prone to increased photosensitivity. Protect your results by using our Protective Day Cream SPF 23 every morning.

Buffer the product (to minimize any side effects) by using our Kantic+ Intensely Nourishing Cream every evening.

Use our Gentle Refining Scrub and Kantic Brightening Moisture Mask weekly to help with any flaking and redness.

To optimize the anti-pigmentation results, use our Advanced Retinol Serum with the Pigment Lightening Serum. Not layered, but rather at different times – use the Pigment Lightening Serum every morning, and on the evenings you are not using the Advanced Retinol Serum.

What other questions do you have about this product? Let me know – or start counting. It’s T minus 17 days!

15 Beauty Rules

October 10, 2016July 23, 2020Alchimie Forever, Beauty1 Comment

I was invited by Progressions Salon and Spa last week to participate in a Wellness and Stress Management event. In thinking about the theme, I was reminded of the core of our brand’s DNA, and of the reason why my parents decided to create a product brand so many years ago: because looking good, means feeling good, means doing good. Indeed, looking good is a way to relieve stress, and increase wellness.

The question, of course, is what can we do to look good, to look better? Here are 15 rules, strategies, rather, that I learned from my parents – and that I follow religiously.

Prevention is everything. Don’t wait to see wrinkles or have bad skin to use great products, get regular facials, and go to your dermatologist at least once per year. Think of your skin care the way you think of your dental care – you don’t wait to have rotting teeth to brush your teeth daily; you don’t wait to have cavities to go visit a dentist twice annually for your checkup. The same behavior applies to skin.
No smoking. Ever.
No sun. Ever. If you must sun, remember: no “unprotected sun.” And no tanning beds either.
Never go to bed without washing your face. I recently learned from a very credible source (a German R&D specialist) that every day you sleep with your makeup on you age your skin 7 days…
Exfoliate once per week. Every week. This not only helps your skin look its best, it also will help all of your skin care products work better. Using expensive serums and masks on skin that is never exfoliated is like taking a shower with your rain coat on. It’s a shower… but it’s not exactly have its full desired effect…
Use a product with broad-spectrum SPF protection every morning. January 1 through December 31. Yes, that includes the winter months.
Use an antioxidant product every day, ideally twice a day. This will help your skin age as gracefully as possible.
If you’re old enough to drink, you’re old enough for a good eye cream. The skin around the eyes is the first to show signs of aging, so prevention is even more important.
Sleep on your back. You can train yourself to do this. Even if it’s not all night, every night, it will truly make a difference. My dermatologist father can always tell on which side a woman (or man!) sleeps because the wrinkles are deeper on that side of the face.
Use products on your neck and décolleté. Your face does not end at your jawline, but rather just above your chest.
The hands are a woman’s second face. Treat them like you treat your face, with anti-aging products and sun protection.
Use more skin care and less makeup as you grow older. Makeup ages you. Except mascara and lipstick.
Make an extra effort to look good on the days you feel bad, sick, tired, sad, upset, or are in a bad mood. Nothing brightens those hard days as regular compliments throughout the day about your lovely outfit, great hair, or fabulous necklace. It works every time!
Look at yourself in the mirror. Really look. That way you will never wake up thinking “how did this line just appear, it was not there yesterday….” Wrinkles take time to form. If you see them forming, you’ll be less shocked or upset when you realize they are fully formed.
Every year you grow older, spend 1 more minute in your bathroom.

How to combine Alchimie Forever with your WrinkleMD device

February 10, 2016July 23, 2020Alchimie ForeverLeave a Comment

I love it when my partners send me a case of Veuve Cliquot just because they love our partnership (and because our best-selling Kantic Brightening Moisture Mask is featured in this month’s Vogue Magazine). I also love it when my spa partners “invent” new ways to use my products, often in conjunction either with other brands they carry or devices they use in their treatment rooms.

This week, one and the same spa partner did both. Progressions Salon Spa Store sent me a case of champagne. And told me about the amazing results they are getting by combining Alchimie Forever products with WrinkleMD advanced ion-infusion technology patches. This brand focuses on enhanced infusions of hyaluronic acid and peptides through the use of ion technology. According to the brand’s marketing materials, “in independent clinical testing, 95% of women experienced an immediate improvement in skin texture and smoothness.”

I asked Teresa Hinton, master aesthetician and the spa director, to tell me more about this treatment she came up with. Here are her pearls of wisdom.

Since this is not out of any “company-approved” protocol manual, she initially tested this concept with guests she has been working with for quite some time, who know and trust her, and are willing to experiment. The ones who have tough, heavily textured, very dry on. She describes them as “those guests that I can go big on.” Here is her protocol:

Step 1: Cleansing of the skin with Alchimie Forever Purifying Facial Cleanser.

Step 2: Exfoliation, which can range from microdermabrasion or other advanced exfoliation, Alchimie Forever Gentle refining scrub, or Alchimie Forever Brightening Peel, or a combination of these.

Step 3: WrinkleMD around the lips; while WrinkleMD is doing its job in that problem area, she applies the Alchimie Forever Kantic Brightening Moisture Mask to the rest of the face; both remain on her clients’ face for 30 minutes.

Step 4: During these 30 minutes, she performs a massage the hands, arms, neck, shoulders to enhance the guest experience.

Step 5: Mask and WrinkleMD removal; she then follows WrinkleMD’s protocol for the WrinkleMD-treated area before applying the Kantic Brightening Moisture Mask to that area as well and leaving it on for a few minutes.

Step 6: Final removal of the mask with a hot towel.

Step 7: Application of finishing products including our Rejuvenating Eye Balm, Kantic Calming Cream or Protective Day Cream SPF23.

I ask her about the frequency of treatment. “While results are immediate,” she recommends “alternating a series with the professional WrinkleMD treatment exclusively every two weeks, and the full treatment ever four.”

Contraindications include pregnancy, having a pacemaker, peel ingredient contraindications, epilepsy, or any metal in the mouth.

While she started with the lip contour area, she is now performing this treatment on the forehead and in the eye contour area as well. She concludes: “The results are beautiful and transform the skin. The blend of the two brands is really amazing!”

Indeed, the before and after photos speak for themselves!

Try it if you carry WrinkleMD. And if you have your own “special” Alchimie Forever treatment you have created in combination with another product or device brand, please do share!